You’ve probably read plenty of recent news stories about how San Francisco is a failed city. Our infrastructure is crumbling, our streets are scary, our social fabric is torn and frayed. Most of that stuff is false. Yes, San Francisco has issues, but they’re the same problems nearly all US cities are facing as they struggle to reorient themselves to our new, post-pandemic economic reality. The “doom loop” narrative that’s often repeated in the national press is a gross exaggeration.
The truth is that San Francisco is thriving. We are at the epicenter of the machine intelligence revolution, as the forces of change draw tech wizards, entrepreneurs, and VC megabucks into our city like a neodymium magnet. Our counterculture roots are still sprouting, and the reigning ethos is one that encourages free thinkers to blaze their own trail.
The city is small and walkable—just 49 square miles, surrounded by water on three sides—and rich with natural green spaces. It’s diverse, with thriving Asian, Pacific Islander, and Latin American communities. It’s also a mecca for queer folks and a sanctuary for trans and nonbinary young people. It will spoil you with culture, mild weather, and positively killer views from the tops of the famously abundant hills.
If you’re coming to town for a job interview, a conference, a VC pitch tour, a new job, or if you’re just here to soak up the vibes, this is where to go, what to do, and how to find your people.
Where to Stay
Union Square Hotels
Courtesy of Palisociety
417 Stockton Street, (415) 400-0500
You’ll find this entry in the Palisociety hotel chain on the edge of Union Square, tucked between the mouth of the Stockton tunnel and SF’s massive flagship Apple store. The recently renovated historic building is brimming with old-timey charm (including the 110-year-old Otis elevator, one of the oldest in the city) but has modern conveniences, like the fact that concierge requests are made and resolved over text message. The Pali is also affordable; a single queen room is rarely over $150. On the second floor is the spacious and chill Bar Maritime, which features a knockout menu of nautical-themed craft cocktails and small plates. The full-service Maritime Boat Club restaurant in the back, with a seafood-focused (but vegetarian-friendly) seasonal menu, also shouldn’t be missed. Top destinations in nearby neighborhoods—the bustling restaurants of Chinatown and the lively bars and nightclubs of North Beach—are 10 to 20 minutes away on foot. A short walk in the other direction leads you to the Moscone Convention Center and the corporate offices south of Market street in the SOMA district.
Courtesy of Z Hotels San Francisco
545 Post St, (415) 563-0303
On the opposite side of Union Square, you’ll find this boutique hotel that takes its inspiration from San Francisco’s history as a rock music hub. Yeah sure, Led Zeppelin is British, but you’ll find plenty of Janis, Jerry, Sly, and Carlos on the walls and in the overhead speakers here. On-site amenities are abundant—24-hour game room; decent burgers in the bar; solid fitness center; and goodie bags for pets, who are welcome—and the location is close to the Mid-Market district that Uber, Reddit, and countless tech companies call home. The Moscone Center and the Salesforce tower are each a 20-minute walk. A wide selection of rooms are available, from simple queens for around $200 to deluxe suites at $350 and up, but even the queen rooms are spacious and funky … in a Summer of Love-via-Urban Outfitters sort of way.
Nearby: Union Square is filled with big-name retailers, but San Francisco’s theater district unrolls just steps to the west. There you’ll find traditional Broadway-style musicals, as well as the Warfield Theater, which hosts national headliners like TV on the Radio, Garbage, and Earl Sweatshirt. There’s good food on every block, but highlights are Hinodeya Ramen on O’Farrell Street, the Sudanese Arabic menu at Z Zoul Cafe, and two-Michelin-starred fine dining at Sons & Daughters. Try for a walk-in seat at the bar at Kin Khao, currently in the running for the best Thai food in SF with a cocktail menu that will make you lose feeling in your extremities. Get your Guiness on at Johnny Foley’s, one of the nicer Irish pubs in the city. And in addition to that giant Apple store, the five-story Macy’s, and all the high-end boutiques ringing Union Square, the city’s first Nintendo store just opened on the same corner Tippi Hedren walks across in the opening shot of The Birds.
Photograph: Smith Collection/Getty Images
181 3rd Street, (415) 777-5300
This high-rise is a favorite of visiting tech execs and conference attendees, as it’s right across the street from the sprawling Moscone Center, where the Dreamforce, Workday Rising, and Microsoft Ignite conferences all take place. Rooms are well appointed with accessible workspaces, calming views of the afternoon fog creeping over Twin Peaks, and prices at around $350 to $550 most weeknights. (Prices go up the weeks of the big conferences.) The gym looks like something out of a Paul Verhoeven movie but has plenty of cardio machines. This branch of Marriott’s W chain is a popular venue for corporate meetings, with 17 large event rooms on the lower floors, including a breezy indoor-outdoor terrace.
Nearby: If you’re looking for a more luxurious stay, try the St. Regis Hotel just two blocks up 3rd Street toward downtown. Rooms there start around $700. This corner of SOMA is rich with cultural institutions; the SFMOMA and Yerba Buena Center for the Arts are on the same block of 3rd Street as both hotels. Food is also abundant: Try Lao Table for Southeast Asian fare and Delarosa Downtown for solid pizza and pasta. The Grove is a good spot for a straightforward soup-salad-sandwich lunch, and also the best spot in the area for grab-and-go breakfast. For cocktails, try the subterranean Local Edition, the library-like Novela, and the charmingly old-school House of Shields.
12 4th Street, (415) 348-1111
Staying in SOMA but venturing a little further west, we recommend this handsome hotel at the corner of 4th and Market streets, right across the street from the boarding zone for the world-famous Powell Street cable car. Zelos has a chic and fashionable vibe, with large and bold artwork on display everywhere, even the rooms. Pets are welcome, and the fitness center has Peloton bikes. Rooms with king beds start at a little over $300 a night. The hotel’s restaurant, Dirty Habit, serves a sort of maximalist take on California cuisine, but the real draw is the 640-plus-bottle selection of whiskies. If you can’t decide which tipple to sip, go for one of the curated whiskey flights.
Nearby: Other hotels in the area we’d recommend are the InterContinental and the Marriott Marquis. Both are comparable in price to the Zelos. Food is abundant around here. Meatheads need to try the burger at Marlowe, a 15-minute stroll down 4th Street. We wouldn’t recommend venturing further west than 7th street—things get dicey after dark—but if you head toward 6th, you’ll find fantastic Vietnamese food. Tin Vietnamese is modern and fresh, and Miss Saigon is some greasy, flavorful goodness with an atmosphere that can be best described as Santa’s Electric Acid Garden. For happy hour, go to The Harlequin in Mint Plaza or try Press Club, one of the better wine bars in downtown SF. The Powell Street cable car will take you on a fairy-tale ride up and over Russian Hill (right past OpenAI CEO Sam Altman’s megamansion) and all the way to Fisherman’s Wharf, where you can watch the sea lions, watch the tourists, and watch your wallet.
Coworking and Meeting Spaces
San Francisco is awash in coworking spaces; it’s the land of the startup, after all. There are plenty of WeWorks and established coworking brands—especially downtown and in Mid Market—but here are some spots we recommend you try first.
Courtesy of Noisebridge
272 Capp Street
This isn’t your typical desks-and-chairs coworking space. Noisebridge is a community of makers, hackers, DIY advocates, and hands-on tinkerers of all stripes. To get in, go to the door on a side street in the Mission District, ring the bell, then wait a few minutes (really, maybe several minutes) for one of the volunteer members to welcome you. Inside you’ll find desks, workbenches, Wi-Fi, tools, and fabrication equipment, all free to use. If you’re looking for a place to hone your 3-D printed prototype, breadboard a circuit for your next hardware demo, or sew some LEDs into your Burning Man outfit, Noisebridge is the place. Queer-friendly, scrappy, and a little punk rock, it’s the spot where you’ll find your inspiration.
595 Pacific Avenue, plus two more locations
If you’re sticking around for a week or two, check out one of the three Canopy spaces in the city. They’re very comfy, with office furniture by Herman Miller and August, and the perks are plentiful. Canopy’s business model is geared toward longer stays; you pay by the month, either for your own desk ($1,100) or for a space at the community table ($700). If you’re just in town for a week or two, the best deal is the Hybrid membership: $445 for any 10 days per month. Small conference rooms and boardrooms are also available.
1540 Market Street, (415) 463-3998
This brightly appointed, quiet-but-lively space in SF’s Mid Market neighborhood is the best spot to go if you just need a desk for a day or two. Memberships for longer stays are available, but a day pass is just $25, and you get a discount if you buy a three-day pass. Anchor has a tidy kitchen, private phone booths, free printing, and even a podcast studio.
Ferry Building, 1, Suite 201
Ascend to the top floor of SF’s historic waterfront Ferry Building to find Shack15. Expansive, exclusive, and always bustling, the space is just as much of a social hub as it is a coworking space. There are two large rooms, one is quiet and filled with desks, the other is more social. Evening events range from book readings to DJ sets to yoga sound baths. It’s a members-only club, but you can apply for a day pass or ask a member to bring you as a guest for a day. The crowd is generally well connected and well funded by VC cash; keep your pitch deck handy.
Best Cafés and Coffices
The city’s café culture isn’t as robust as New York or Portland, but we do have excellent coffee and comfortable spots where you can work all day. Just know, some coffee shops purposely eschew Wi-Fi and disable their electrical conduits to keep remote workers from lingering. Most, however, will welcome you with open arms as long as you keep buying refills—and keep tipping generously.
Photograph: San Francisco Chronicle/Getty Images
181 Fremont Street, 7th Floor (415) 375-5984
This café is nestled in a building right next to Salesforce Park, a funky urban green space on the roof of the city’s big bus terminal next to the city’s tallest skyscraper, the Salesforce Tower. It sounds odd, but the vibe is more “verdant sun-dappled oasis” than “roof deck with coffee shop.” Andytown is a local roaster with several locations around the city, and the coffee drinks here are excellent. This location has plenty of indoor seating, some outdoor seating, and good Wi-Fi.
3049 20th Street
Situated in the heart of the neighborhood where all of the city’s AI companies have set up camp, Atlas has been around since well before the Web 1.0 boom. Low-key and spacious with indoor tables and a covered patio, the café serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, so it’s open until the early evening—an anomaly in a city where coffee shops close at 3 pm. The food is tasty; try the grilled Cubano, the smoked trout sandwich, or one of the many vegan options.
375 Valencia St., (415) 935-0604
If you just need a clean, well-lighted place to work and you don’t need Wi-Fi, visit Four Barrel, one of our many roastery-cafés, and among the best in SF. The coffee drinks are supplemented by delicious pastries, and the tasting bar near the front door often pours rare single-origin roasts. The parklet out on Valencia street, with ebikes and driverless robotaxis whizzing by, is a popular spot for informal two-person meetings.
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Courtesy of Saluhall
945 Market Street, (415) 619-4195
OK, so hear me out. Saluhall is the food court connected to (and run by) the city’s Ikea. But it’s not all Swedish meatballs. No, there are tacos, burgers, noodles, and all manner of food options from local vendors, including excellent craft coffee on the first floor. The Wi-Fi is solid, and the space is big and open, with two floors of tables that are never too crowded. Power outlets are relatively easy to find. One thing you won’t find is a quiet atmosphere; bring headphones.
102 South Park, (415) 829-3082
This worker-owned spot is the social hub and spiritual heart of South Park, the neighborhood where Twitter, Instagram, Dropbox, Strava, and countless other San Francisco startups got off the ground. (It’s also home to WIRED; our office is nearby, and Centro is a favorite of our staff.) Seating is limited during the lunch rush but plentiful in the mornings and afternoons. The Wi-Fi is solid and free, and the food is excellent; try the salade niçoise.
Where to Eat in San Francisco
Taqueria Pancho Villa in San Francisco’s Mission District.Photograph: Smith Collection/Getty Images
San Franciscans love to argue about what our most important culinary export is, be it cioppino, sourdough, or the Gibraltar. Around here the verdict is clear: It’s the Mission burrito. These gut-busting, foil-wrapped cylinders are made with a flour tortilla that’s steamed to give it an extra stretchy pliancy—all the better for filling it with carne asada, al pastor, or tofu ranchero. This style of burro was born in the Mission District (hence the name) so that’s where you should go to get one. Our recommended spots are Taqueria Can-Cun, Taqueria El Buen Sabor, Pancho Villa Taqueria, La Corneta Taqueria, and Papalote. All are within the 10 blocks that make up the heart of the Mission, and all have excellent meat and veggie options. (Vegans should try the Veggie California at El Buen Sabor.) Don’t skip the aguas frescas.
Photograph: San Francisco Chronicle/Getty Images
New Yorkers love to spout off about how their city has the best pizza in the US. You absolutely should ignore them; any seasoned traveler knows you can get phenomenal pizza in almost every big city. San Francisco serves up world-class wood-fired pies at A 16, Tony’s Pizza Napoletana, Pizzeria Delfina, and Il Casaro. Flour + Water Pizzeria in North Beach is also worth a trip just to try the Calabrian-chili-infused Bomba Margarita, which pairs perfectly with a slice or five of burrata pizza. For thick focaccia style pizza, try Golden Boy or Cellarmaker. For perfect East Coast–style slices, stop in at The Pizza Shop in the Mission—it’s the best slice in the city.
Photograph: Michael Robinson Chavez/Getty Images
One in five San Franciscans has Chinese ancestry, and our large Chinese and Chinese American population means we have some truly outrageous choices for Chinese cuisine. Most of the best spots are in Chinatown (SF’s is the oldest in the country) and in the avenues out by the Pacific ocean. Among the Chinatown hot spots, House of Nanking is a perennial favorite serving Hunan dishes, Taishan Cuisine is the place to go for Cantonese, and Spicy King has killer Sichuan fare. The fine dining at Mister Jiu’s is divine, and the relatively new Four Kings is already an upscale favorite among locals. We recommend securing reservations for both, but it’s still worth trying for a walk-in seat. For Chinese food in the avenues, point your Waymo to Clement street in the Richmond district. There, you’ll find the fast-casual Mamahuhu, the newly opened Dumpling King, and the fiery Sichuan fusion craziness of Spices II.
The Bay Area’s history as a hippie mecca is long gone, but the current culture of healthy living, farm-fresh produce, and tech-based meat alternatives is thriving. As such, we’re stacked with forward-thinking vegetarian and vegan places. The most accessible of the bunch is Wildseed, an entirely plant-based restaurant in the Marina serving California cuisine with an excellent wine program. Its fast-casual sister restaurant near city hall, Rad Radish, has mostly the same menu. For Chinese fare, try Enjoy Vegetarian, which makes everything on the menu without garlic or onions and still manages to blow the doors off with flavor. For vegan Japanese, we recommend Cha-Ya, a casual spot in the Mission, and the fancier Shizen (also in the Mission) for vegan izakaya and sushi. Vegan ramen is abundant, but the best bowls are at Ramewell and Menya Kanemaru Golden Ramen. And we’d be remiss if we didn’t also point you to Greens, one of San Francisco’s foundational vegetarian restaurants that’s been serving refined market-fresh dishes for over 40 years.
A Night Out
Photograph: Michael Calore
777 Valencia St., (415) 551-5157
It used to be a funeral hall, and now it’s a music venue. The Chapel hosts midsize touring acts of all stripes in its 500-person-capacity concert hall. The photogenic wood paneling and 40-foot arched ceiling will be instantly recognizable on your Reels. The bar Curio occupies the front of the space and has an outdoor patio with live jazz, acoustic music, and the occasional DJ set.
2665 Mission Street, (415) 829-3082
This nonprofit venue operates out of the historic Grand Theater and hosts a full calendar of technology-forward cultural events. Check in to find performances, gallery shows, lectures, concerts, literary events, workshops on making music and digital art, and the occasional full-blown IDM rave that flexes the theater’s blistering sound system. The annual Gray Area festival takes place in September.
2 Fort Mason, (415) 561-6582
This truly handsome bar is also the community space and social hub of the Long Now Foundation, a local nonprofit that encourages artists, technologists, and policymakers to think about not just the next few years or decades of civilization but also the next few millennia. Such heady conversations about the distant future are right at home in this library-like space—check out the giant mechanical model of the solar system opposite the bar—and all that grand thinking is fueled by one of the more creative cocktail menus in the city.
Photograph: Martin Cizmar
547 Haight Street, (415) 863-2276
With 54 taps, two casks, and dozens of bottles, cans, and crowlers on the menu, Toronado is a beer drinker’s paradise. Check the tap list to see what’s currently pouring. It’s a restrained, occasionally surly place where the staff brooks no bullshit, so stay patient and cordial and you’ll be fine. It’s also a cash-only establishment; bring bills and tip generously.
2937 Mission Street, (415) 814-3779
If you prefer a cozy, softly lit place to kick back on a couch and have some maniacally good cocktails, head to Evil Eye. The bar program has creative takes on crowd pleasers like negronis, old-fashioneds, and palomas, as well as adventurous detours like El Gruño: mezcal, bitter fernet, ancho reyes chili liqueur, strawberry shrub, and ginger beer. Balance it out with deviled eggs, togarashi popcorn, and an Impossible burger. Evil Eye also has a playable Xenon pinball machine; released in 1980, it’s the first talking pinball game, and features sound effects and voices by synth pioneer Suzanne Ciani.
3158 Mission St., (415) 282-3325
Visit one of the centers of SF queer culture at this LGBTQ+ owned and operated dive bar on the border of the Mission District and Bernal Heights. El Rio has it all: karaoke nights, salsa dancing, line dancing, punk shows, burlesque, indie rock matinees, DJ nights, and poetry readings. The giant back patio rages on both sunny afternoons and chilly nights; it’s the perfect spot to enjoy a super-strong margarita or an ice-cold can of Tecate while you make new friends.
Things You Must Do in San Francisco
Photograph: San Francisco Chronicle/Getty Images
Great Hwy, (415) 831-2700
The city’s newest park is a 2-mile stretch of coastline on the city’s western edge. It used to be the Great Highway, a four-lane thoroughfare for cars, but the city closed it down to auto traffic and opened it up to walkers, runners, cyclists, kids, doggos, and all manner of living beings. It’s still fun when it’s foggy and windy, which is often. But when the sun breaks through and the deep blue Pacific ocean stretches out to forever, it’s absolutely glorious.
Photograph: Michael Calore
Dolores St &, 19th St, (415) 831-2700
The weather at the beach is often a bit of a gamble, so San Franciscans in search of a reliable place to sunbathe, picnic, and party head to Dolores Park. Sitting right on the border of the Castro and the Mission, these six square city blocks of grassy hillside make up the town square for the city’s young professionals. It’s crowded on weekends, but that’s what Find My is for. Bring a blanket, pack some snacks, and don’t forget your hoodie; the cold creeps in as soon as the sun dips behind Twin Peaks to the west.
San Francisco is marked by seven massive hills (and many smaller ones), all of which deliver shockingly beautiful views to anyone up for a climb. Create your own peak experience by taking an urban hike up and over Nob Hill. It’s the best way to see the city. Starting at Union Square, go straight up Powell street. You’ll find the historic Grace Cathedral at the top. From here, you can see the Golden Gate, Alcatraz, the downtown skyline, Potrero Hill, and Twin Peaks—the full panorama. Head downhill to the north to end up at Fisherman’s Wharf and Fort Mason, or descend to the west to Polk Street for oysters at Swan.
Photograph: Steve Proehl/Getty Images
Yes, it’s probably the most touristy thing on this list, but if you’re a seasoned cyclist—or even just an OK one—it’s a super fun way to spend a weekend morning. Rent a bike in the Haight-Ashbury district, or just grab a Lime or a Bay Wheels-Lyft ebike, and head toward the ocean. JFK Drive runs the 3-mile length of Golden Gate Park, and the eastern half is closed to car traffic, so you can slow your roll as you check out the public art installations or stop and play one of the upright pianos along the route. The western half of the ride is more untamed and scenic—keep an eye out for the bison—and it ends with a tulip garden, a restored windmill, and the sandy breakers at Ocean Beach. Stop at Andytown for a coffee just north of the park entrance, then ride home.
The author has lived in San Francisco for over 25 years and has worked at WIRED’s headquarters in SOMA since 2006. He has seen two tech bubbles, a dozen notable earthquakes, and one Oakland A’s ALDS win.
